Edinburgh in December: Things to Do & What to Expect
Edinburgh is a fantastic city to visit at any time of year, but December brings something a little different. With Christmas markets, festive lights and the famous Hogmanay celebrations, there’s plenty to look forward to in the Scottish capital.
Now, I’m not the biggest fan of cold weather, so the fact that I’ve visited Edinburgh twice for New Year’s Eve says quite a lot! Despite the freezing temperatures and ridiculously short days, I’ve enjoyed both trips, especially watching the spectacular fireworks over Edinburgh Castle at midnight.
Whether you’re visiting for the Christmas festivities, celebrating Hogmanay or simply planning a winter city break, here’s what you can expect from Edinburgh in December.
Is Edinburgh Worth Visiting in December?
I think Edinburgh is well worth visiting in December, particularly if you enjoy Christmas markets and festive celebrations.
The city’s historic streets look lovely decorated for Christmas, and if you’re visiting towards the end of the month, there’s the added excitement of Hogmanay. One of the things I enjoyed most was simply walking around the city, taking in the Christmas decorations and stopping at a pub whenever we needed to warm up.
There are a few things to consider, though. December is one of the coldest months of the year, daylight is limited and the city can get busy around Christmas and New Year.
If you’re hoping to spend long days exploring outdoors, you might prefer visiting in spring or summer. But if you don’t mind wrapping up warm and making the most of the shorter days, December is a great time to experience Edinburgh.
Things to Do in Edinburgh in December
There’s plenty to do in Edinburgh in December, whether you’re visiting for the Christmas festivities or staying to celebrate Hogmanay. Some of our favourite experiences were the seasonal events, but we also enjoyed simply exploring the city and stopping off at the occasional pub.
Here are some of the best things to do during a December visit.
1. Visit the Edinburgh Christmas Markets
Edinburgh’s Christmas markets are one of the main attractions in December, with the traditional market taking place in East Princes Street Gardens, right in the heart of the city. You’ll find stalls selling gifts, decorations, food and drinks, along with fairground rides and a big wheel overlooking the city.
We visited in the late afternoon, just as it was starting to get dark, and really enjoyed wandering around the stalls with all the Christmas lights on. The setting is particularly nice, with Edinburgh’s historic buildings rising above the market.
We didn’t find the prices noticeably more expensive than at other Christmas markets we’ve visited in the UK, although food and drinks can soon add up.
I’d recommend visiting around dusk if possible. You get to see the market before it’s completely dark, then enjoy the lights as the evening draws in. The market usually runs from mid-November into early January, and entry is free.
2. Join the Hogmanay Torchlight Procession
If you’re visiting Edinburgh towards the end of December, the Hogmanay Torchlight Procession is something I’d highly recommend.
The procession is part of Edinburgh’s New Year celebrations, with thousands of people carrying flaming torches through the city’s streets. It’s quite a sight, especially once it gets dark and you can see the torches stretching along the route.
Zuzi and I took part during one of our Hogmanay trips, and it was one of our favourite experiences of the visit. There were plenty of spectators watching from the sides, but carrying our own torches and walking with everyone else was much more enjoyable than simply watching.
We’d spent some time in a pub beforehand rather than arriving ridiculously early to collect our torches. We weren’t anywhere near the front of the procession, but that didn’t spoil the experience at all.
You can usually watch the procession without taking part, but I’d recommend buying a ticket if you want the full experience. It generally takes place in the days leading up to New Year’s Eve, so check the official Hogmanay website for confirmed dates, routes and tickets.
3. Celebrate Hogmanay in Edinburgh
Hogmanay is the Scottish name for New Year’s Eve, and Edinburgh is one of the most famous places in the world to celebrate it.
I’ve spent New Year’s Eve in Edinburgh twice, and both trips were quite different. The first time, I went with friends and we spent the evening enjoying the city’s pubs and bars rather than attending the official celebrations.
On my second visit, Zuzi and I bought tickets for the Hogmanay Street Party. We were a little worried about spending hours queuing for drinks, so we visited a few pubs beforehand, although the queues weren’t quite as bad as we’d expected.
The highlight was undoubtedly the midnight fireworks over Edinburgh Castle. Standing there watching the fireworks with thousands of people celebrating around us was a brilliant way to welcome the New Year.
The official Hogmanay Street Party is a ticketed event held on 31 December, with music, entertainment and fireworks at midnight. There’s also a separate Concert in the Gardens, which requires its own ticket, so make sure you book the event you actually want to attend.
If you’re planning to spend New Year’s Eve in Edinburgh, I’d arrange your accommodation and event tickets well in advance. It’s one of the busiest times of year to visit, and leaving everything until the last minute can limit your options.
4. Explore Edinburgh’s Old Town and Royal Mile
Simply wandering around the Old Town is one of the best ways to spend a few hours, especially with the Christmas decorations adding a little extra colour to the streets.
The Royal Mile stretches between Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse, with narrow closes, historic buildings and plenty of side streets to explore. Nearby, you’ll also find the colourful Victoria Street and Grassmarket, both worth wandering through.
We actually explored much of this area without knowing the names of half the streets we were walking along! We weren’t following a particular route, just enjoying the city, admiring the Christmas decorations and popping into the occasional pub along the way.
I’d recommend doing some of your exploring during daylight, especially with the short December days. But it’s also worth wandering around after dark when the Christmas lights are on.
5. Visit Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle is one of the city’s most famous landmarks, sitting high above the Old Town on Castle Rock. You’ll spot it from all sorts of places as you explore Edinburgh, and it’s particularly impressive when you see it towering above the surrounding streets.
Inside, you can explore the Great Hall, see the Scottish Crown Jewels and visit St Margaret’s Chapel, one of Edinburgh’s oldest surviving buildings. There are also some fantastic views across the city from the castle grounds.
I’ve been inside Edinburgh Castle, and while I’m glad I visited, I actually prefer admiring it from the outside. Seeing the castle perched on top of the hill is one of my favourite sights in Edinburgh, although that’s just my personal preference.
If you’re interested in Scottish history, it’s certainly worth going inside. Parts of the castle are outdoors, so try to visit earlier in the day to make the most of the limited daylight. It’s also worth booking tickets in advance and checking the opening hours around Christmas and New Year.
6. See Edinburgh’s Christmas Lights
Edinburgh gets dark surprisingly early in December, but at least you don’t have to wait long to enjoy the Christmas lights! By late afternoon, the festive decorations are already lighting up the city centre.
George Street is one of the best places to see the Christmas lights, while Princes Street and the surrounding New Town streets are also worth exploring. You’ll find decorated shopfronts and festive displays as you make your way around.
We loved seeing Edinburgh lit up for Christmas. You don’t need to plan a separate outing to see the lights, but I’d definitely leave some time to explore after dark.
7. Warm Up in a Traditional Scottish Pub
After a few hours exploring Edinburgh in December, there’s nothing quite like finding a cosy pub to escape the cold. Luckily, the city has plenty of them, particularly around the Old Town and Grassmarket.
We spent a fair bit of time in Edinburgh’s pubs during our December visits, partly because we enjoy a good pub and partly because it was freezing outside! We usually just popped into somewhere that looked inviting rather than planning where to go.
I remember stopping at a pub around the Royal Mile where Zuzi ordered some traditional Scottish haggis. We’re both fans of haggis anyway, but enjoying some proper Scottish food in a warm pub was a pretty good way to spend part of a cold December afternoon.
If you’re visiting around Hogmanay, expect some of the more popular pubs to be busy, especially in the evenings. It’s worth allowing a little extra time if you’re hoping to get a table.
8. Enjoy a Scottish Whisky Tasting
Scotland is famous for its whisky, so Edinburgh is a great place to learn a little more about the country’s national drink. And with the cold December weather, an indoor whisky tasting isn’t a bad way to spend an hour or two.
Two popular options are the Scotch Whisky Experience, close to Edinburgh Castle, and Johnnie Walker Princes Street. Both offer guided experiences where you can learn about Scotch whisky and sample different varieties, although the tours and tasting options vary.
If you enjoy a dram, or you’re curious about how Scotch whisky is made, it’s certainly worth considering.
I’d recommend checking the available tours and booking ahead, particularly if you’re visiting Edinburgh during the busy Christmas and Hogmanay period.
9. See Christmas at the Botanics
If you’re looking for another festive activity in Edinburgh, Christmas at the Botanics is worth considering. Held at the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, this seasonal light trail transforms the gardens with illuminated displays, colourful installations and music.
Unlike the Christmas markets, this is a ticketed event with a set route through the gardens. It’s a good option for families, couples or anyone who enjoys Christmas light displays, particularly as Edinburgh gets dark so early in December.
The event usually runs from November into early January, although dates and displays can change each year. I’d recommend booking tickets in advance, especially for weekends and the days around Christmas.
Edinburgh Weather in December
Edinburgh is cold in December, with average daytime temperatures of around 6°C and overnight temperatures often dropping close to freezing. Rain and wind are fairly common, so it’s worth being prepared for a mixture of weather during your visit.
Snow is possible, but don’t expect Edinburgh to be covered in it throughout December. You’re more likely to encounter chilly, damp days than a picture-perfect snowy city.
We’ve been quite lucky with the weather during our December visits, with mostly clear skies despite the freezing temperatures. Once we were wrapped up properly, we had no trouble exploring the city or enjoying the Christmas and Hogmanay celebrations.
The other thing to consider is daylight. Around the winter solstice, the sun doesn’t rise until roughly 8.40am and sets before 4pm, leaving you with only about seven hours of daylight. I’d recommend planning any outdoor sightseeing for earlier in the day and saving the Christmas markets, lights and pubs for the late afternoon and evening.
What to Wear in Edinburgh in December
If you’re visiting Edinburgh in December, warm layers are essential. I’d recommend a good winter coat, a hat, gloves and a scarf, along with comfortable, waterproof shoes for exploring the city.
One thing I’d particularly recommend is a decent pair of warm socks. On both of my December trips, I remember my toes getting cold even when I thought I’d dressed warmly enough! And once your feet get cold, wandering around Edinburgh becomes a lot less enjoyable.
You don’t need any specialist winter gear, but I’d prioritise warm, waterproof clothing, especially if you’re planning to spend several hours outdoors at the Christmas markets or Hogmanay celebrations.
